Best Food Writing 2015
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America,” says Moorman. “It has the most interesting food. The most soulful food. The most thoughtful food.” But it takes more than soul and thought to run an experimental restaurant—Chicago’s plentiful and relatively affordable real estate (paired with a good number of affluent, open-minded diners) seals the city’s position as the avant-avant-garde. “The rent is the biggest factor,” Moorman explains. “Coming here from New York, it’s like traveling to a country with a favorable exchange rate.
financing, Akiko Moorman is not. “I’ve been a very strong advocate of getting others to understand that need to start self-funding in this industry,” she says. “Letting outside investors control what the chef does, where the chef cooks, what goes on the menu—really, that’s one of the industry’s biggest downfalls. And until we have enough successful chefs who are willing to give back and start funding younger chefs with an angel investment group, we are not going to see what this industry can do.
Pastor)Shepherd’s Tacos (Tacos al Pastor) Margarita Carrillo Arronte 35 minutes Serves: 6 Ingredients 5 guajillo chiles, membranes and seeds removed 5 tablespoons apple cider vinegar 3 cloves garlic, peeled Pinch of ground cumin 2 cloves 1 pork leg or rump, thinly sliced 2 to 3 tablespoons corn oil 1 large onion, thinly sliced Sea salt To serve 12 small tortillas � pineapple, peeled, quartered, cored and sliced 1 small onion, finely chopped 4 tablespoons finely chopped cilantro
something to make them line up and link together to mimic muscle. For a while the team got nowhere. Geistlinger kept tweaking the chemistry—“taking shots on goal in a constructive way,” as he puts it—and Anderson kept playing around with the results. Nothing. “Early on we thought we were close,” Anderson remembers. “So I brought in an In-N-Out burger. We tried the In-N-Out and it was just chew, chew, chew, and then we tried ours. I was like, ‘Wow, we’re not even close.’” Eventually, Geistlinger
morning truffle hunt: “I have the white gold!” Alessandro hails from the heart of ragu country and lives for these types of belt-loosening food adventures. This is a man who celebrated the birth of both his son and his daughter by gifting them batteries of aceto di balsamico—a series of wooden barrels that hold balsamic vinegar as it ages over the course of a lifetime. When I emailed him two weeks before the trip and asked him to be my guide, his answer was short and definitive: “Si! Si! We go